My trip to Germany this year was specifically scheduled to coincide with Christmas Market season. I first visited the Christmas Markets in Berlin 5 years ago and it left an indelible impression of conviviality and good cheer…a feeling I am always longing to replicate.
There is nothing like this near me at home, though Boston has offered up a few attempts in recent years with some limited success. I visited Snowport earlier, which you can read about here, and while it was well thought out, it was missing something the European markets have in spades…perhaps its the combination of people and culture that make the European Christmas Markets so attractive. And the food is certainly more plentiful and better.
Patrons happily wandering about with glass mugs of hot mulled wine would never happen at home. I didn’t see any litter or broken glass at the German Markets, and no matter how crowded, everyone seemed happy and unhurried.
It is the one place where Germans amble?! On the sidewalks they move at a remarkably fast clip, at the markets, everyone seems to slow down to enjoy the moment and take it all in.
I have been to 8 different German Christmas Markets plus passing through several smaller constellations of market stands and rides that pop up in the shopping areas during the season. Here is our completely biased and not at all official assessment of the best reasons to love each one.
Alexanderplatz City Hall Market
This one holds a special place in my heart as the first market I ever encountered and the magic of the experience. This market boasts the worlds largest mobile ferris wheel (is that a good thing??), a skating rink in the center, and Santa’s sleigh flying overhead on cue with the sleigh ride music. Music is piped in at this market contributing greatly to the festive atmosphere.
Also, this one has the best Lango’s…the fried dough fresh out of the fryer and available with a garlic cream base that was delicious. AND it has the traditional Czech pastry Trdelnik, baked on spits over a coal fire the way the good Lord intended.
Medieval Market Berlin
This was a small Medieval themed market in the bowels of a warehouse district. It was one of the few markets with a nominal entrance fee, presumably to fund the entertainment in this case.
Open wood fires in braziers scattered about to provide spots to warm up, and appropriate games like axe-throwing and archery were on offer. Wares included blacksmiths forming useful iron items, and medieval style clothing.
This market boasted the best Handbrot - a melty cheese (and meat or veg/herb filled bread roll sandwich. The Germans make amazing bread. Also quarkballchen fried dough balls covered in vanilla sauce…yummmmm.
AND it was where I first encountered the delightful skewer spiral of fresh fried potato chips that seem to be a staple fair food here.
Also, most amusing fire/acrobat show…none of the dialog of which I understood, but it was highly entertaining nonetheless!
Christkindlesmarkt Nuremberg
Market Square in Old Town at Nuremberg
You can read all about this massive market in THIS post, but it wins the award for sheer abundance of fresh cut greens, along with the MOST charming surroundings.
Mittelaltermarkt Nuremberg
Nuremberg Medieval Christmas Market
This hidden gem is on the outskirts of Nuremberg and was a small medieval themed Christmas market. This market included some amazing sheltered seating areas fashioned from rough hewn logs holding tent canopies and centered on open fire pits.
No one seems to be the least bit bothered by open fire here regardless of its proximity to children and combustibles. The fire Marshall from my home town would have a heart attack. This market also boasted the best juggler show.
Breitscheidplatz Market
This is a smaller market of primarily food stalls on the sidewalks in the main shopping district and despite the rainy weather this was still comfortably full of after work revelers meeting for snacks and drinks.
This had a whole set of seating areas under wooden canopies with scattered pine bows covering the floors. It also had a rather uninviting empty shipping container with an open side offering shelter (sorry I didn’t think to get a picture!)
A canopy of lights overhead with changing colors added a festive dynamic and highlighted the main thoroughfare.
Charlottenberg Market
On the grounds of the Charlottenberg Palace, this is such a pretty market. This wins the lighting award with thousands of white twinkle lights decorating trees and stalls and fences, red and green uplights projected on the bare tree branches in the courtyard, and a laser light show with music projected on the castle in the backdrop.
Jenna and friends enjoying some Gluhwein at Charlottenberg Christmas Market
There are plenty of booths of handcrafts, and all the requisite fair foods.
This also wins for best mini doughnuts. The booth we found at the far corner boasted a lazy river for donut dough with an automated machine dropping dough onto a conveyor belt that dumped the blobs into a fat fryer two at a time. These amazing pillows of fresh light powdered sugar covered goodness are worth the trip alone!
Humboldt Forum
This brand new market near the opera house and was beautiful and cleverly arranged. This rivals Charlottenberg market for most beautiful setting.
Along the front entrance edge, two back to back rows of stalls offered wares and a wide variety of international cuisines, and of course libations alongside with a handful of rides. Seating areas were beautifully appointed with lantern centerpieces and cut greens.
Inside an open-to-the-sky courtyard were more booths including a two story one with indoor seating upstairs by reservation.
A light show of stars and moons and the occasional snowflake were projected on the buildings both inside and outside the courtyard contributing an elegance to the atmosphere.
Best Kaiserschmarrn here (a baked and caramelized cut pancake dessert) - which we watched the production of from batter to plate! We ordered ours topped with cherries and vanilla sauce.
We also tried the ginger gluhwein at the Lowenhutt (Lion Hut) which came complete with lion themed pub tables!
Gendarmenmarkt
This market, relocated to the plaza next to the opera house the last couple of years due to construction, is known primarily for its curated handicrafts - many of the vendors here display only at this market. It is one of the few with a small entrance fee at peak hours.
Vendor wares range from the gorgeous to the incredulous. Hand crafted and painted ceramics, absolutely stunning coats, quirky hats, hand painted silk and handcrafted felt scarves, sculpted artsy (and some a little creepy?!) leather handbangs, intricately pieced wooden cutting boards and boxes…and so much more.
Many of the booths here are actually inside larger tents so sheltered from any inclement weather.
In additional to the handicrafts tent, there were a number of inside tent spaces for eating/drinking, and some larger umbrella/canopy spaces outside as well. As with nearly all Christmas markets here, there was a life size nativity scene.
A stage in the center of the market ran a stream of comedic and acrobatic performances. Roving performers strolled amid attendees.
This is a beautiful market, and one of my favorites for the pretty decorated white canopies with gold stars on the peaks and for the gorgeous hand crafted items!
I adore Christmas Market season in Europe…it is such a civilized and festive addition to the holidays! I can’t wait to go back!
