My trip to Berlin to visit the diva in her habitat was timed this year to coincide with the legendary Christmas Markets. Our first weekend we decided on an overnight excursion to Bavaria to the city of Nuremberg for the famous Christkindlesmarkt that dominates the beautiful walled old town portion of the city for the season.
After a slightly bumpy start with our departure on The intercity Deutschebahn train - waiting on the listed platform with several hundred of our fellow passengers when the announcement came 5 minutes prior to departure of a platform change and we all dutifully streamed up the stairs, across the rails and down again to the new platform only to hear immediately on arrival a second announcement sending us all back to the original platform?!
our coach arrives…
Our very civilized train trip was about 3 1/2 hours and involved a visit to the dining car for tea. Oh how I wish train service was available for ALL my travel…it is SO much nicer and roomier than flying!
The beautiful Nuremberg train station
A short tram ride (no taxis for us - we are intrepid transit riders!) got us from the station to the hotel in just a few minutes and we were all checked in and off to meet our tour guide, a friend of Jenna’s, for a tour of the highlights of the old city before we were set free to roam the market.
Anna-Lena was a delightful guide showing us the hidden gems of old town - the makers alley, the hangman’s bridge, pointing out the ornate oriel bay windows from which medieval women would call down to do business with the vendors, the fountain in the market square with the wishing rings, and a delightful pub called the Goldenes Posthorn, the oldest wine bar in Germany where we ate the famous Nuremberg sausages with potato salad (the diva had sauerkraut with hers).
The elaborate spire marks the well in market square - a necessity for clean water back in medieval times. Now an iron fence surrounds it and legend says that climbing up to turn the ring on the gate will grant your wish!
There were so many inspiring details, from carved church doors, to ironwork and statuary.
The entrance to the Goldenes Posthorn pub features a horn door handle - the symbol for the post office here.
The famous Nuremberg sausages are small compared to many other German sausages, but deliciously flavorful!
Tourists can take tours in the horse drawn mail carriage here. We had a much better walking tour, but the horses are too cute note to photograph!
She told us a bit about the Christmas market and how the Christkind is the traditional gift bringer, not Santa. The Christkindl is a sprite like child with blond hair and angel wings. A young girl is chosen each year in Nuremberg to act the part and she officially opens the Christmas Market with a speech from the balcony of the church of Our Lady overlooking the market square.
Entering the Christkindlesmarkt
The balcony of Our Lady church overlooking market square
Old Town Nuremberg is a bowl shaped medieval walled city with delightful architecture, cobblestone streets, quaint bridges, cathedrals, and a castle complex on the upper end. It was heavily damaged in air raids in World War II and has since been rebuilt into a blend of old and new. Anna-Lena took us down a winding street that boasted some careful reproductions.
A majority of the buildings are crafted of sandstone, and many feature baroque and gothic style architecture, along with quite a few half timber and stucco treasures that are what come to mind when I think of quintessential Bavarian buildings. Red tile roofs, and baroque embellishments live alongside newer additions.
The Christmas Market sprawls throughout old town, including a whole separate area for the children that includes petite games and rides along with plenty of stands with treats and beverages to fortify the adult companions :).
The main centerpiece of the Christmas Market are the rows of red striped tents in Market Square. Here vendors for every imaginable whim from handcrafts to mass produced ornaments and a delightful assortment of delicacies stand shoulder to shoulder row after row.
We were here for the first visit on a Saturday evening and it was PACKED with attendees. Moving down the aisles between booths was slow going, but everyone is in a jovial mood so no one minds. It doesn’t hurt that most of the attendees are relaxing with gluhwein or some other adult beverage.
In spite of the formidable crowds, it was still a festive and fun atmosphere and we managed purchases of keepsakes and some tasty fried dough (of course!) and adult beverages (of course!).
On Sunday, we had breakfast at the hotel. Since it was included with our room, I wasn’t expecting much, but boy was I wrong! The buffet included cold cuts and salads, bread and pastries, fresh juices, a cappuccino/espresso/latte machine, and my beloved English Breakfast tea with TEAPOTS available. Be still my heart. The hot buffet included bacon, Nuremberg sausages, and eggs/omelets made to order.
Sufficiently fortified, we headed off. Anna-Lena, in addition to being a lovely tour guide and just a delightful human being, also gave us some key suggestions for our visit.
We could take a tram around to the top of old town for a spectacular view from atop the castle without making the climb like mountain goats 😂. While overlooking the town a smattering of snowflakes fell for about 5 minutes lending a magical air to the whole experience and eliciting delighted “oohs!” from pretty much everyone around us!
Next, again with our insider information, we took the transit to a small medieval Christmas Market on the outskirts of Nuremberg.
These booths were thematically aligned - with axe-throwing and archery, woolen and felt goods, bottled mead, and medieval cloaks and dresses.
From the shelter of a tent where we were enjoying some Turkish tea, we watched a juggler perform various increasingly complex and hair-raising feats including juggling flaming sticks and an assortment of lethal looking knives.
Christkindlesmarkt at Market square in front of Our Lady Church, old town Nuremberg
For our last couple of hours before heading back to the train, we went back to the Christkindlesmarkt in old town and purchased tickets that would allow us to climb the winding staircase to the balcony of the church for a birds eye view of the market.
Finally on our way back, we headed off to find the largest punch bowl in the world. The “Feuerzangenbowle” is a red wine and rum punch The name comes from the tongs which holds a burning, rum-soaked sugar cone over the punch bowl. The sugar melts, is caramelized and drips into the wine below, giving the “Feuerzangenbowle” its special flavor.
While we did find the bowl, a copper kettle that holds 9000 liters of the beverage, it was, alas, not aflame during the day. The picture below, courtesy of the market, is what is looks like when lit.
Image via Christkindlesmarkt
We had sampled the punch the night before at a stall in market square where they were producing it on a much smaller scale and it IS delicious!
Nuremberg Christmas Market is like no other and I’m so delighted we got to experience it. I hope to go back some day to do it all again!
